Mixed Metals And Two-Tone Jewelry

One of the strongest trends to emerge from the jewelry showrooms taking over Haussmanian apartments and plush hotels suites in Paris last week, was mixed metals, with several prominent independent designers showing two-tone pieces created using both gold and silver-toned precious metals. Mixed metal chains were particularly strong, with yellow gold feature links on chunky silver chain and even complex two-tone links.

Long a style no-no in some quarters, gold and silver metals worn together was back at the forefront in Paris, as a fresh way to express style and creativity through jewelry. Mixed metal jewelry is rooted in Middle Eastern design, and a diverse roster of contemporary designers like Istanbul-based Kloto, Copenhagen’s Kinraden and Paris-based Rainbow K are looking to the past to inspire contemporary jewels.

Why choose between silver and gold when you don’t have to? Look to the seven designers who did mixed metals best, at this season’s Paris Fashion Week.

Kloto

Blending ancient hand-making techniques with modern design, Kloto Creative Director Senem Gençoğlu, creates, fluid, easy jewelry that stands alone for its fresh, minimalist aesthetic. Her latest collection has a chunkier look, inspired by stone structures and a temple in her grandmother’s home town. As a trained industrial designer, Gençoğlu intends the Raya earrings, with their hint of Eighties nostalgia, to be as long-lasting as their inspiration.

Eéra

Heading up Milan-based Eéra are designer duo Chiara Capitanu and Romy Blanga, who started their brand in 2019 with a collection based on a carabiner hook they found at a vintage store in Japan. Four years later and their jewelry look has developed into something altogether more sophisticated, while retaining all the boldness of those original earrings to create just as much impact as the ready-to-wear the two worked with in their previous fashion careers.

Kinraden

Behind newcomer Kinraden, is architect Sarah Müllertz, who has brought her clean design aesthetic to precisely engineered jewelry. The Oxygen collection is inspired by Japanese joinery, in which each element fits together as harmoniously as the inhale-exhale rhythm of the breath itself. The Sigh V is the longest chain earring, in a series which runs from a single link, to these shoulder-ticklers, with each metal component meticulously worked together.

Milamore

Milamore’s distinctive look is the product of a multicultural background blending Spanish, Filipino and Japanese heritage. Creative Director George Inaki Root launched his brand in 2019, with a super stylish bohemian mash-up of pearls, diamonds and precious metals. The Open rings are from the new En collection, and pair mixed metals with diamonds and negative space to vibrant effect.

Charlotte Chesnais

Paris’ own master of the wavy line, Charlotte Chesnais has worked with mixed metals since she started her jewelry brand in 2015, exploring the way jewelry interacts with the body through sculptural, fluid forms. The Wave bangle pairs 18kt vermeil with rhodium-plated silver in the ultimate easy expression of the designer’s aesthetic.

Francesca Villa

Who said two-toned jewelry had to be about minimalism? A master of eclecticism, Francesca Villa creates wonderfully maximalist jewelry from found objects and diverse cultural inspiration. The Blue Puffer ring features an antique reverse intaglio — a hand-carving technique designed to create a 3D effect — rimmed with gold and set into a hand-painted titanium band set with tsavorites and peridot, and finished inside with a tiny starfish and bird footprints.

Rainbow K

Rainbow K may not be the first brand to bring fashion trends to fine jewelry, but it is certainly one of the most coherent, consistently putting their own stamp on trend-let looks to create a recognizable style. The Piercing Earring is one of their most popular jewels, designer to be worn stacked up the ear for maximum impact, or as a pair, for a tongue-in-cheek take on Noughties style.

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