Notable Women Jewelry Designers Who Launched At Paris Fashion Week

I’m celebrating International Women’s Day 2024 by recognizing some female designers who launched at jewelry shows that took place during Paris Fashion Week.

Designed in London and handcrafted in Europe, Anoona Jewels debuted in the Nouvelle Box showroom during Autumn/Winter Paris Fashion Week 2024. Inspired by the moon’s eternal presence, Anoona designs also draw their substance and style from the mysterious power of lunar cycles over earth’s tides and human biology. From antiquity through today, the moon has served as a constant and compelling motif in jewelry history. Given the moon’s poetic power and because of the sheer beauty of its designs, Anoona Jewels embody an elemental, universal appeal emanating from their ruling motif and energy source, the moon.

As Anoona’s Creative Director Sadhbh Roux-Fouillet notes on the brand’s website, “Anoona channels those influences in my life that are constants: the Moon, colour and the inherent poetry of a circle, which is a shape that features prominently in my designs.” Fittingly, the brand’s logo is a slender gold crescent moon.

Notable standouts from Anoona’s NouvelleBox show include the Umbra collection, the designs of which gleam with tiny, interconnected circles of 18-karat solid gold interspersed with diamonds. These interconnected circles cascade one over the next in necklaces, bracelets and chandelier earrings. Umbra takes its name from the shadow of an eclipsed moon and references how the moon transitions from shining bright in its many phases and also becomes eclipsed in darkness.

Another young and gifted female designer who debuted during Paris Fashion Week is Istanbul-born, London-based Dilhan Hanif. Following jewelry studies at London’s Central St. Martins school, Hanif felt compelled to expand her collection and build the DILHAN brand. The DILHAN SU collection launched last week at the GOLDRUSH show organized by Javier Goggins and Valery Demure in Le Marais. “In every piece there is strength and delicacy blended in harmony,” Hanif wrote in an email. The strength and delicacy of DILHAN’s SU Collection are inspired by the female experience and by the elements that give life to it and sustain it, foremost among them water.

Hanif related how despite the facts that women consumers drive the jewelry market and many women work in mining, jewelry design and manufacturing, she experiences gender-related obstacles. “Being a woman designer in today’s jewelry industry is not the easiest. Working in a male-dominated industry, it has been important to establish a community of artisans who fabricate for me,” she wrote. “It’s important that I earn their respect for what I design. With every piece I thoroughly refine the design process to make sure I am producing high quality jewelry that can last forever. With every piece,” she concluded, “I try to incorporate the highest level of craftsmanship.” At that, Hanif and her brand succeed.

In the case of DILHAN’s SU collection, the design, gemstone substances and technical finesse are based on the absolute life force, flow, energy and nourishment of water. In SU pieces, carved aquamarines curve like sensual seascapes inside of sculptural 18-karat gold. This fluid jewelry is also gender-fluid and utterly timeless jewelry.

Another female jeweler whose work made an indelible impression for multiple reasons during Paris Fashion Week at the GOLDRUSH show is Nathalie Mathoulin. Reason #1: She fabricates her jewels with certified Fairmined gold, which is extracted by artisanal miners who never use mercury and thus avoid polluting rivers and earth. Plus, these miners receive a premium price for their gold which they use to re-invest in their communities by building schools, medical clinics and the like.

Reason #2: Mathoulin sets her pieces with stones, pebbles, flints and shells that she has collected from diverse landscapes on various continents. These materials are variously formed, textured and colored by erosion, waves and other acts of nature. Reason #3: Besides looking beautifully down to earth, Mathoulin’s one-of-a-kind pieces are easy to wear with formal clothes as well as casual attire. Reason #4: In addition to previously stated points, Mathoulin jewels are hand-fabricated in the United Kingdom. All of this means that Mathoulin jewels set a solid and high standard for sustainable jewelry designers to aspire to.

Another personal Paris Fashion Week favorite was the deliciously gemmy and light-hearted collection from Paris-based Tamara Taichman, who also exhibited at the GOLDRUSH show. Taichman’s CUBIX collection featured necklaces and bracelets comprised of malachite, tiger’s eye, lapis lazuli and rhodochrosite, complemented by smoothly tumbled rose quartz and other gemstone beads. The hardstone cubes bear letters that are variously gem-set to spell out words like H-O-P-E. For example, in the CUBIX “HOPE” multicolor necklace, lapis, tiger’s eye, rhodochrosite and malachite cubes are set with letters formed by orange sapphires, turquoise, peridot and pink tourmaline. As these vibrant, hard-edged cubes and their glittering letters are complemented by multicolored gemstone beads that are smoothly tumbled, the overall effect is irresistibly pleasing and sincerely positive.

In summary, while the women designers featured in the report may come from varying backgrounds, they all share an abiding love of fine jewelry, a commitment to independent design and a devotion to refined artisanship. Powered by their respective visions, skills, energies and artisans, these women designers are making memorable artistic and economic marks in the male-dominated jewelry industry. According to the Watch and Jewellery Initiative 2030, 72 percent of the 109 largest luxury companies are led by male CEOs.

Happy International Women’s Day.

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